Claro, St James’s: A Year of Seasonality, Soul and Remarkable Service

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By Sophie Weir, Senior Editorial Assistant, Luxury Hospitality Magazine.

Few new openings have captured London’s attention quite like Claro. Within just a year of launching in St James’s, this modern Mediterranean restaurant has been recognised by the Michelin Guide, praised for its ingredient-led cooking, elegant design, and assured service.

Stepping in from the rush of Waterloo Place, the change in atmosphere is instant. The space feels effortlessly serene — high ceilings, amber lighting, and soft textures creating an openness that’s both grand and welcoming. There’s no self-conscious design statement here; instead, a gentle sophistication that lets the food and conversation take the spotlight. The open kitchen catches your eye subtly with movement, precision, and ease — a kind of quiet theatre that you watch without realising.

Guiding the kitchen is Chef Shadi Issawy, whose Tel Aviv roots inform a balances and generous cuisine rooted in the seasons. Working alongside Chef Patron Ran Shmueli, who founded the original Claro in Tel Aviv in 2014, Issawy brings an Eastern Mediterranean sensibility that translates beautifully to London. Their partnership has given rise to something entirely its own — a graceful conversation between heritage and modernity, defined by confidence.

Our visit coincided with Claro’s first-anniversary Berkshire menu, a month-long celebration of local producers — a way to honour the restaurant’s first year through the language of British ingredients, expressed with Mediterranean brightness.

We began with the yellowtail crudo — thin slices dressed with freekeh tabbouleh, pistachio, yoghurt, and tomato salsa. Light, fresh, and finely tuned, it set the tone for the clarity of flavour to come. The roasted beetroot, paired with smoked labneh, Wigmore cheese from Riseley, and shards of crispy kale, was just as poised. The sweet, earthy beetroot played against the labneh’s subtle smoke, each element harmoniously distinct.

The venison tartare from Vicars Game — another Berkshire highlight — followed and proved the standout dish of the evening. Finely cut with a clean, pure flavour, it came with a potato pavé “cacio e pepe” so beautifully constructed it felt like a small act of devotion. Golden, crisp, and delicately layered, it transformed a side into something unforgettable. Together, they captured what Claro does best — precision, restraint, and a respect for ingredients.

For our main course, we shared the Claro Lamb Platter, slow-cooked for fifteen hours until tender enough to fall apart under the fork. Served with tzatziki, matbucha, and pickled vegetables, it balanced smoke, acidity, and spice with striking composure. It’s the kind of dish that feels celebratory and generous, guided by care rather than excess.

To drink, the Unterebner Pinot Grigio 2022 from Alto Adige was an inspired match. When we asked for a pairing, our waiter called over Head Sommelier Ron Bronfman, who offered two wines to taste before we decided. He approached the pairing with thoughtful guidance, and the crisp Italian white became the perfect thread through the evening. That interaction alone summed up the spirit of Claro’s service — knowledgeable, gracious, and genuinely attentive.

It’s rare to find hospitality this seamless. The team works with quiet precision; every pour, every plate, every pause between courses feels naturally timed. Nothing is overstated, yet nothing is overlooked. It’s attentiveness that comes from genuine pride rather than performance, allowing guests to relax into an easy rhythm.

During the evening, Chef Patron Ran Shmueli came out from the kitchen — a gracious gesture that spoke volumes. Warmly, he asked about our experience and shared reflections on the restaurant’s first year in London. It was a sincere moment that encapsulated the sense of connection Claro is built on.

Dessert carried the same discreet confidence. The Bread Pudding — made from challah cubes soaked in crème anglaise with cinnamon-caramelised apples and clotted-cream ice cream — was comfort reimagined, a familiar pleasure elevated with light, rich nuance. The Pecan Pie, a New York-style classic with a nut-rich, gooey centre on a fine pastry base, had been recommended by our exceptional waitress and lived up to every expectation. Its buttery depth, touched with sea salt, was the perfect finish — indulgent without tipping into sweetness. Her thoughtful recommendation captured the warmth that defines the team: a genuine wish to share what they love.

What truly distinguished our Claro experience was the people behind it. From the chefs at the pass to the servers front of house, everyone moves with the same ease and passion. The atmosphere they’ve created is rare — polished and professional, yet deeply genuine. The sense of welcome here comes not only from formality, but also from thoughtfulness — a keen awareness of what makes guests feel seen and at ease.

After just a year in its London hub, Claro feels entirely assured, building something lasting. Its Michelin Guide recognition is less like an accolade and more an affirmation of its beautiful integrity. Every element — from the pacing of the meal to the precision on the plate — demonstrates an understanding that great dining goes beyond spectacle, favoring carefully curated substance over show.

This winter, the restaurant continues its story with Christmas at Claro, offering East Mediterranean–inspired set menus for groups and private gatherings. It’s a fitting way to close the year, celebrating the generosity, connection, and thoughtful hospitality that define this place.

London has no shortage of exceptional restaurants, but few combine refinement and warmth quite like Claro. It’s a restaurant that lingers in memory because it knows exactly who it is. In a city that never slows down, Claro offers a rare kind of calm — a reminder that excellence can be quiet, graceful, and deeply human.

For more information, and to book a reservation, please visit: https://www.claro-london.com/